In addition to using furniture wisely, it is important to handle it carefully. Safe handling and moving of furniture begin with a basic understanding of how a piece is constructed. The second step is to plan carefully.
Before picking up a piece of furniture, determine how it is put together and if any of its parts are removable or detachable. Make sure you know where the furniture is its strongest - generally along a major horizontal element - and try to carry it from these points.
Then examine the room and the route whereby the furniture is to be moved. Look around to make sure you know where everything is. Identify potential trouble. Light fixtures that hang low, for examples, or that extend out from the wall may be damaged or cause damage. Glass table tops are also easily damaged if bumped. If necessary, clear the way by moving or removing fragile or obstructive items. Protect the furniture to be moved with soft padding or wrap it in a blanket pad. Padding, which will provide extra insurance against bumping and gouging, is especially important if an item is going into storage.
Before moving an item, make sure you know exactly where it goes next. Plan ahead to adjust the temperature and relative humidity in the new location so they are the same as where the furniture presently is. Extreme changes in temperature and humidity can cause splitting of joints and veneers.
Never hurry when you are moving furniture. Scratches, dents, and gouges from bumps against door knobs, doorways, and other furniture are always more likely in haste. Each item needs to be approached individually, without haste, and with sufficient manpower present.
Make sure you have a firm grip on the piece with both hands. Do not wear cotton gloves. It is essential that hands not slip from a piece of furniture while it is being moved.
Never slide or drag furniture along the floor. The vibration can loosen or break joints, chip feet, break legs, etc., to say nothing of what dragging does to the carpeting or finish on the floor. Whenever possible, use trolleys or dollies for transporting heavy pieces.
Handling valuable furnishings requires a special attitude: in general, movement should be carried out at a slower pace. Here are some quick tips for moving furniture properly. Remember: If you don't break it, it doesn't have to be fixed!
Just as gymnasts work with "spotters" to catch them when they misstep, have helpers on hand to guide the movers so they don't crash into walls or other pieces of furniture
Anticipate trouble; think through every step; plan ahead; and do everything with care
Make sure the route is clear and has no obstructions, such as narrow doorways or hanging chandeliers that might hinder the safe passage of furniture and movers
The following sections offer suggestions for moving specific types of furniture: SEATING FURNITURE
When lifting a chair, remember that the seat rail is its strongest part, not the chair back. Frequently lifting by the back, especially the crest rail, will eventually result in breakage. For small chairs, lift by the side seat rails, one hand near the front on one side, the other near the rear on the other side.
When lifting a large chair or sofa, the principles are the same. Grab underneath the side frame, making sure to lift with your legs rather than your back. For upholstered chairs or sofas, place your hands underneath the frame to avoid touching the upholstery. If upholstery must be touched, use cotton gloves. For chairs with slip seats, remove the slip seat and wrap and move it separately to prevent its being soiled or falling out during the move.
The strongest part of a table is generally the apron. Whenever possible, lift the table carefully from the apron, never by the top or legs. Lifting on the top rather than the apron may break the glue-blocks that hold the top to the frame or strip out the screws that hold the top on. Grabbing the legs, particularly tables with long, unsupported legs, will cause unnecessary stress on the leg and the joint connecting it to the apron. Whenever possible, wrap padding around a table's legs before moving it to prevent chipping or breakage during the move.
If you are moving a drop-leaf table, first determine which support members move. Is the table leaf supported by a bracket or by a swing-leg? Fold the leaves down, and restrain them with padding and a tie band. If the support is provided by a swing-leg or gate-leg, tie it in place as well. The only safe place to grab a drop-leaf table is underneath the end aprons. Grabbing by the legs, especially swing-legs, will increase the chance of damage to them, and grabbing the table by the side leaves will often result in fracturing the long rule joint that allows the leaves to drop.
While case pieces, especially large ones, may appear very different from tables and chairs, the same rules apply. Never try to move a large piece by yourself. A case piece requires at least two people. While a case piece requires can be moved by carrying it carefully, holding on to the bottom as you would a table or chair, it is better to move the piece on a dolly. A dolly makes the move safer for both the movers and the object, and that is all the more true for large objects.
First, examine the piece. How was is put together? And how can it come apart? Take the piece apart as much as is possible. That is, remove the top piece of a cabinet from its base; remove the cornice or pediment, if there is one.
If the carcass is sturdy enough, remove an drawers to lighten the load and make the move easier. Carry the drawers separately to the destination. However, if the carcass is weak and shifts from side-to-side, leave the drawers in place to provide stability and prevent further damage to the joints. Tall pieces that do not come apart into separate sections need to be set on their sides on a dolly to prevent their topping over.
If the piece has handles, wrap them with padding. Padding protects the handles, the furniture surface (if the handles have swinging bales or drops), the movers, and the surroundings in case you bump up against anything.
Never grab a heavy piece like a chest of drawers or bookcase by the cornice at the top. The attachment of the top to the base may be loosened and pull apart from the rest of the piece.
Lift the piece straight up, using your legs, not your back. Don't let it tilt, and do not grab it by its hardware or any other protrusions.
The moving project becomes increasingly difficult with objects that are large and complex. Objects that come apart into many pieces or are unwieldy require extra care and preparation. Because of their many parts grandfather and grandmother clocks are very difficult to move.
Always remove the pendulum and weights from within the clock before doing anything else. These pieces are heavy and will damage the clock case if they smash into the side of the case. They may also cause damage to the mechanism itself. Wear cotton gloves when you remove the pendulum and weights, to avoid corroding the metal pieces from skin contact.
Remove the hood from the top of the clock (they often slide forward), and lay it down to pack and move separately. Make sure the door to the case is locked or securely closed before moving the clock. Use bare hands, not gloves, for moving and packing the carcass of the case. For short moves, like those of only a few feet, it is permissible to lift by grabbing the narrow case from the underside of the molding at the top of the waist, or center portion of the case, provided that the molding is firmly attached to the case itself. For longer moves, or if that molding is not secure, the clock case should be carried flat like a coffin.
Shopping guide to where to buy Italian charm bracelets on the Internet and at jewelry stores, different styles and designs, and how to choose.
The charm has been around in varying formats for centuries. Whether carried in the pocket, around the neck or on the wrist, the charm makes for a definite statement. Making that statement has numerous possibilities and the Italian charm is just one of the latest ways to let people know what you believe, who you are, and what you are passionate about.
THE LOOK AND FEEL OF AN ITALIAN CHARM
Italian charms will come in all kinds of "looks" and that is what makes them so great to collect. You can change them up according to whatever mood you are in by building your own Italian charm bracelet. An interchangeable charm bracelet allows for a new look to be added to your wardrobe by the minute. Italian charms are not the typical dangling, shapely charm of the past. No, Italian charms are anything but dangly or shapely, they are flat and create a flat link that can pop on and off a stretchy bracelet of your choosing. Do you see the possibilities here?
Yes they are the latest trend and you will see young and old alike sporting their own personal creations. How could they not be popular with the endless choices available? Adding charms is as easy as locating one to pop on your bracelet. Building them to make a personal statement about your family, your hobbies, your pet(s), your favorite sport, holiday destination, art or music is as quick as locating the charms on the web or in your local jewelry store, or in your jewelry box and popping it right on your bracelet. Italian charm bracelets are just plain fun.
WHERE TO START?
Look for quality when shopping for your charms. Don't be fooled by the cheaper quality charm made to look like the Italian charms. Italian charms are made with high quality, hypoallergenic stainless steel bases. The charms themselves are usually 18k gold and are soldered to the link base. Cheaper quality charms might not have the stainless steel in the base and are definitely made with gold plate and not 18k gold.
Sizing is as easy as small, medium, or large. A small sized Italian bracelet will have 17 charm links. A medium will have 18 charm links per bracelet and a large sized bracelet will have 19 links. Of course you can size them anyway you see fit making them smaller than 17 charms and larger than 19 charms. Most women will have wrist sizes that fall into the small, medium, or large category.
Choosing a brand may seem like a concern. Fear not, the major Italian charm makers all use a standard size to create their charms, which makes them interchangeable with any bracelet. The cheaper charms may not interchange well so beware if you get caught up in their particular brands. They may not work on your Italian bracelets but who would want a cheaper quality product to begin with, right?
BUILDING A CHARM WARDROBE
Pricing that charm bracelet is as easy as pricing individual charms. An Italian made charm will start its pricing at around $15 and top out at about $50. Enamel charms will price at around $18 and stones at about $22 each. Most jewelers offer specials on a starter bracelet if you buy multiple charms at one time.
Need some ideas on what Italian charms to purchase first? The top sellers start with hearts, mom, and the American flag. If that does not work for you or the person the gift bracelet is for then move on to the other possibilities. Explore a hobby, a favorite historical era, or even a favorite stone and you are on your way to creating your first Italian charm bracelet masterpiece. A meaningful message or keepsake is another flexible choice for this bracelet. If you are going to give this bracelet as a gift check and see what the receiver already has. You may be able to top off an existing bracelet with a pricey charm that the owner may have never considered.
Self-expression and diversity is what fashion is all about and Italian charm bracelets fit the bill.
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